Pompeii and Pizza

The fresco was found on a wall in the atrium of a house in Regio IX, a section of the ancient town which contains a mix of residential houses and commercial structures, such as a laundry and a bakery. It portrays a 2,000 year old meal on a silver tray, with a wine goblet, various fruits and something flat and round that looks very much like a pizza. It lacks the traditional ingredients of tomatoes and mozzarella, tomatoes only being introduced into Europe in the early 16th century by the Spanish, and mozzarella made from medieval times from the by-product of another cheese. Is this the ancestor of the pizza as we know it?

According to experts, it is more likely to be a flatbread. A culinary archaeologist has identified it as a type of flatbread called adoreum, which was used for offerings, firstly by the Greeks and then the Romans. She has identified the toppings in the fresco as cheese or fruit paste; a bay leaf (with a small slice of cheese underneath); a small apricot, peach or apple; quail eggs; and slices of apricot or peach. Other experts have identified dates, pomegranate and citron, an old and original species of citrus.

The traditional pizza we love so well originated not far away from Pompeii, in Naples in the 16th century, where initially, like pasta, it was poor man's food. The first pizzas were simple flatbreads topped with tomatoes, garlic and olive oil. They gained popularity and by the 19th century were a staple food. Pizzerias began opening up across Italy. Italian emigrants took their pizza recipes with them to the United States, where they evolved into regional varieties - New York, Philadelphia, Chicago, Californian.

In 2017 the culinary art of Neapolitan Pizzaiuolo was honoured with inclusion in Unesco's "Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity" list. Pizzaiuolo is a culinary practice involving 4 stages: kneading the dough; stretching and twirling the dough, an action often accompanied by singing; topping the base beginning in the centre and swirling clockwise; and finally baking in a wood fired oven, where the baker uses a rotary movement to ensure even cooking. The stretching and twirling stage is a performance of art and skill, often watched by customers who participate by singing along with the baker. It is believed about 3,000 Pizzaiuolo live and perform in Naples.

If you are adventurous you may like to try making the adoreum using the culinary archaeologist's recipe. Or if you prefer to make a modern pizza, the library has several recipe books specialising in pizzas. The Joy of Pizza: Everything You Need to Know by Dan Richer is a comprehensive guide to making the perfect pizza. It contains a run down on the  ingredients, the varieties of cured meats and cheeses to use, and pizza dough and pizza sauce recipes. There are instructions on how to make the dough and stretch it (alas, no lyrics for traditional Italian songs so you can sing as you stretch); and instructions on how to use a wood fired pizza oven, how to maintain the heat, and where to place and bake your pizza in the oven.

More recommended books on pizza: 

Mastering Pizza: The Art and practice of Handmade Pizza, Focaccia, and Calzone by Marc Vetri

Craft Pizza: Homemade Classic, Sicilian and Sourdough Pizza, Calzone and Focaccia by Maxine Clark

Building a Wood-Fired Oven for Bread and Pizza by Tom Jaine

Your Brick Oven: Building It and Baking In It by Russell Jeavons

Recommended books on ancient Pompeii:

Pompeii: The Life of a Roman Town by Mary Beard

The Lost World of Pompeii by Colin Amery

The Complete Pompeii by Joanne Berry