A Costumer's Guide to Sewing Historically Inspired Garments
I began historical costuming only four years ago. Prior to this the only sewing experience I had was a few long-forgotten high-school classes. So when people ask me, “Is it difficult?” I answer, “It’s time-consuming, but not difficult. The place to begin is the library.”
Firstly: Start by picking an Era.
I recommend: Georgian, Regency, Victorian, Edwardian. You’ll make things a lot easier on yourself if you choose a style of costume based on a well-documented historical era.
You may have something already in mind. Perhaps your eye has been drawn to the costumes as seen on screen recently: Downton Abbey, Poldark and Outlander.
If you’re not sure where to begin, simply find a style you like by looking through some of the examples of Dunedin Public Libraries books on the subject. I have listed a few of my recommendations below.
Once you’ve picked a style, I strongly suggest starting with the undergarments.
Of course everyone wants to start with the outer pieces – that’s where the fun is. But undergarments really determine the success of an outfit because they shape you and the outer garment to create the fashionable silhouette you’re trying to recreate.
You won’t regret the time spent creating a petticoat regardless of how it turns out. Even an ugly, poorly-made petticoat will serve you for years to come, but you’ll quickly stop wearing a poorly-made top even if you spent lots of money of the fabric. Working on undergarments gives you time to learn techniques and practice your sewing.
Secondly: How historically accurate do you want to be?
I like to break historical accuracy down into two parts:
1) Modern construction versus period construction.
Did you know, clothes made prior to 1860 were all sewn by hand?
There’s no rule that says you have to hand-sew if you want to dress up like Elizabeth Bennet in Pride and Prejudice, however know that the technology you employ does effect the ‘look’ of the final garment.
2) Modern patterns versus period patterns.
It’s not until you start investigating period clothing that you realise how much sewing patterns have changed. Did you know that ‘princess seams’ basically didn’t exist until the Victorian era? And don’t get me started on darts.
Personally I do a blend: I use modern machinery – sewing machine, over locker - with period sewing patterns.
Right, now on to the Books!
General ‘How to’ sewing books can be found around the Dewey decimal number: 646
Historical Fashion books and those which include Period Patterns can be found around : 391
Recommended Books:
‘Patterns of Fashion’ (series of 4 books) 391.00942 ARN
by Janet Arnold:
• The Cut of Women's Clothes 1600-1930 391.009 WAU
• Cut of Men's Clothes, 1600-1900 391 WAU
• Corsets and Crinolines 391.42 WAU
Above are all by Nora Waugh
The Victorian Tailor: An Introduction to Period Tailoring (mens wear). Jason Maclochlainn 646.402 MAC
Period Costume for Stage & Screen. Patterns for Women's Dress, 1500-1800. Jean Hunnisett 792.026 HUN
Regency Women's Dress: Techniques and Patterns 1800-1830. Cassidy Percoco 391.209034 PER
Fashion in the Time of Jane Austen. Sarah Jane Downing 391.09034 DOW
Nineteenth Century Fashion. Penelope Byrde 391.00942 BYR
Dressed to Impress, 1840-1914. Christina Walkley 391.00942 WAL
Costume in Context (series of many books). Jennifer Ruby 391.00942 RUB
Great Grandmother's Clothes: Women's Fashions in the 1880's. Naomi E. A. Tarrant 391.20942 TAR
Costume in Detail: Women's Dress 1730-1930. Nancy Margette Bradfield 391.209 BRA
Authentic Victorian Dressmaking Techniques. Kristina Harris 646.4 DRE
iD Fashion Week: Images of the Past
Marvel at a parade of historically-inspired fashions, as Images of the Past costuming group reveal the immense detailing of the Victorian/Edwardian-era lady’s wardrobe.
This top-to-toe fashion show will surprise and delight you.
Wednesday 22nd March, 5.30pm
Dunningham Suite, 4th Floor, Dunedin City Library
FREE