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Photo by Jess Lang

Surfs up 🤙

Jess Lang —

Last week Keo Morrison attended two surf competitions in the South Island.

Eleven days ago my family and I drove up to Christchurch to compete in a surfing competition. When we arrived in Christchurch the surf was very bad and super windy. The next day (the competition day) the waves were very big but luckily the wind had dropped off so the waves were super clean and easier to surf. At eight o’clock the competition had begun. I checked the order of events to see what time I was up but since the waves were quite big they decided to hold the under eighteen boys and girls the first day. After a long day of free surfing and watching my sisters compete it was finally time for me to go to bed.

The next day we got up at seven and drove down to the surf comp. I checked the order of events to find out that I was up at ten o’clock. I got into my wetsuit, put some sunscreen on and put some wax on my surfboard. I got my white rash vest from the judging area then walked down to the beach with my dad. He gave me some advice and then I started to paddle out to where the waves were breaking. The paddle was really hard because there were constant waves breaking in front of me making it hard to get out. Once I got out my competitors were out there waiting for the heat to start. Within two minutes the buzzer had gone and heat had begun one of my competitors (Sam Frazerhurst) had gotten a really good wave but when he got back out the commentator said that the heat had restarted because the judges couldn't see because of the sun angle. The judges had to walk down to the middle of the pair right beside where we were surfing. The heat had started again and there was a good set coming we paddled out and Sam got the first wave of the set but luckily there was a good wave behind it and I got it and did a good cut back and then did a turn and pulled off as I was paddling back out then a heard the judges say that I got a five point seven and I was happy! 

Overall, I didn't make it to the finals but had great surfs and a fun time!