In this third article in a series, Barbara Henley describes the first few days walking the Camino de Santiago.

DAY TWO: EARLY CHALLENGES

I looked up the meaning of a “challenge”. A challenge is something new and difficult which requires great effort and determination.

Day one wasn’t too bad, I thought to myself — not for long, however, as the very next day proved challenging in so many ways. It was wet, we were cold, the track out of Roncesvalles was uphill, narrow, rough and stony and I was adjusting to an 8kg backpack I didn’t normally carry around with me. I didn’t expect it to be smooth walking and I was relieved to be well away from the main roads. In fact, I preferred the mountain tracks to the smooth, sealed, roadside paths. I didn’t want it to be easy — just not too hard.

The descent into Zubiri was another challenge as the beautiful countryside of the Esteribar Valley was distracting in its beauty and colour, inviting me to sit and enjoy its wonder.

We finally crossed the famous, ancient Rabia Bridge which spans the course of the Arga river. We splashed ourselves in its cooling waters. The several hundred other pilgrims were obviously fitter and perhaps wiser than Anne and I because there was no room in any inn on our second night. We had to break the budget and stay at a local hotel in Zubiribut, joy of joys, they had a bath and a bar to soak away the aches and pains. Bliss!

After a full and nourishing breakfast, which was included in the accommodation price, we headed off at Anne’s decisive pace. We realised that an early arrival at the end of the day's walk guaranteed a bed — even if it was a top bunk. This was another mountainous up-and-down trek along a rough track. It was an early challenge to remind pilgrims the Camino was not a walk in the park. I left my jacket at the lunch stop. I was so annoyed with myself as I do NOT like losing my possessions, especially this jacket because I'd borrowed it. I had to get over it and thanked Pedro who phoned the café and made enquiries about finding the jacket for me. A challenge beyond my limited Spanish.

DAY THREE: THE RUNNiNG OF THE BULLS

Finally, we walked or rather stumbled into Pamplona where we were allotted a tiny spacesaver pod and a stretcher. It was quite flash but busy, noisy and crowded and we were anxious about our packs and possessions. Why did we worry so? Had we not asked Santiago to protect us along The Way?

After the obligatory ablutions and laundry rituals we headed out into the fascinating, historical city of Pamplona which was alive with tourists, pilgrims and locals and adorned with large, fierce-looking plastic torros throughout the streets and in all the souvenir shops.

We walked the streets along the route of the running of the bulls and pretended to be chased into the huge arena. El Toro is certainly a focus of the city but at what cost to the poor bulls or the brave toreadors?

We prayed the rosary with the local community in the majestic Catedral de Santa Maria la Real and the memorable singing of the Gloria by the small group of men at the end of each decade still resounds in my ears. Helped by the sublime acoustics, the group sounded like a professional, operatic choir. There we encountered the elderly at prayer. Meanwhile out in the plaza the younger generation gathered around the fountains and shop steps engaged in their own rituals, laughing, chatting and drinking.

I loved the old city of Pamplona with its narrow streets, small shops, enticing signs, colourful displays, various plazas and ornate buildings. I bought another light rain jacket for 50 euro. It proved invaluable.

I had a good sleep in my spacesaver pod as did Anne on her stretcher.

Up early again. No more sleeping in, Barbara. However, it was a most beautiful walk through old and then new Pamplona up the valley and out through fields of sunflowers — acres and acres of smiling "faces" encouraging us on our journey.

THE NAVARRA

I wonder if you remember the sculpture of the pilgrims at the summit of Alto de Perdón, the Mount of Forgiveness, in the movie The Way? Well, we stopped there to enjoy the spectacular view across the Navarra countryside and take action photos in front of that sculpture once we could find our personal moment among the throngs of pilgrims also trying to capture the same image.

Up and down, up and down we plodded along, still getting used to our backpacks and treading gently on feet which were not used to carrying extra weight nor walking so far day after day. Parts of the Navarra are flat and dry, and there was a long procession of pilgrims rambling along dry dusty paths past fields of wheat, corn and alfalfa. Then, suddenly, we were climbing up the Basque mountainside. It was possibly about then when many started to really feel the pain of their blisters. Fortunately, my very comfortable Salamander shoes saved me from this.

Finally, we made it into Puerto de la Reine and after Eucharist we were invited to share a meal with a friendly group of pilgrims. Little did we know how special that group was to become for us. Nor did we know how extremely grateful Nikki was for the encouragement and sweets Anne offered her on the crossing of the Pyrenees. She was carrying an enormous pack and was ready to give up on the first day because she was suffering pain and exhaustion. Finding English-speaking companions among the mix of accents and languages was refreshing and interesting.

DAY 6: CAMiNO COMPANiONS

It was at Estella where I learned the significance of the village plaza. Around 6pm every evening family groups would gather in the plaza. The adults chatted over a wine or coffee and watched the children play. There Anne and I again met up with Nikki and Diana, BJ and Jo, Dominique and Francoise. We were warmly welcomed at their table where we shared faith stories, life adventures, dreams and ideas. We connected instantly and they were a regular joy and highlight of my Camino pilgrimage.

Thank you Santiago for bringing colourful, joyful characters into my pilgrim journey — such a blessing and a delight. Guide all Pilgrims on their Camino.

Tui Motu Magazine. Issue 302 April 2025: 18-19