Dear Mum, family and friends

We set off really early this morning and searched out the wine fountain with a young German couple we'd met along the way. As you'll see in the photo, one tap gives red wine the other water. This gift to pilgrims is in a winery just out of Estella. I flavoured my water bottle for the walk ahead and found the hills far less effort! Whether that's because I'm getting fitter or the effects of vino - tomorrow will tell.

Today the path gave two options. One looked as if it was up-hill all the way - so I took the other. Margie went the high-way and we arranged to meet at Cruce. After 19kms I arrived at Los Arcos where we were planning to stay the night, having seen no sign of Cruce. I'd been there only a few minutes before Margie turned up too. After comparing notes we found that our paths were much the same.

It was a beautiful walk on fine shingle paths mostly. We wound through hills with vines, ploughed fields, red soil and huge straw stacks and harvested fields. I came across an asparagus field as well. In the little towns we saw beautifully kept vegetable gardens. We've seen few animals and fewer birds so far. There's a great smell of manure in the fields as they're ploughing it in for fertiliser.

The church in Los Arcos was a magnificently decorated building. Most churches we've visited are plain buildings with huge golden high altars and side altars. San Maria had as much gold and, as well, every inch of wall was painted. It was spectacular. Two women custodians spoke to us enthusiastically the whole time we were there.

It's a Camino practice to collect stamps at albergues, churches and meal places. We have quite a few attractive stamps now.

We decided to push ahead rather than stay in Los Arcos as it was only about 11 am. So we had a rest and then continued to Sansol where we booked into a little albergue - and the woman offered to do our washing while we had a drink. Such luxury - to just give over all our dirty, sweaty clothes!

 We had a delicious breeze again today which helped.

With love to you all. I have you in my heart and thoughts as I walk.